Are you using any caching? Can you make sure the cache directory has appropriate permissions? The behavior your are describing almost sounds as though PHP tries to write to the cache, then fails or times out.
Yes caching is turned on (database, magpie, page, sql and tag) and the Cache directory has 777 permissions.
Check permissions, and try to disable caching.
Is there a separate caching option for the Control Panel? Which caching should I try to disable?
Thanks for all your help.